Anthony Bourdain had a gift for peeling back the polished surface of the food industry and showing us the raw, unsanitized truth underneath. In his bestselling book Kitchen Confidential, the late chef and travel documentarian didn’t hold back on what dishes diners should approach with caution. One standout warning? Mussels. Yes, those little shellfish bathed in buttery sauces and often served with crusty bread.
Despite being a fan of the dish itself, Bourdain avoided ordering mussels at restaurants—unless he knew the chef personally or had witnessed their storage practices firsthand. “Most cooks,” he wrote, “are less than scrupulous in their handling of them.” A strong statement—but not an empty one. As it turns out, science backs him up.
The Hidden Risks of Mussels: What Makes Them Tricky?
Mussels, like clams and oysters, are filter feeders. This means they absorb whatever is in the water around them—including bacteria, viruses, and pollutants. If not properly stored, even a single bad mussel can unleash a host of foodborne illnesses like Vibrio infections or norovirus. And because mussels are typically cooked quickly (sometimes just steamed), there’s not always enough heat to kill all potential pathogens—especially if the seafood was already contaminated.
In a 2018 study published in the Journal of Food Protection, researchers noted that shellfish contamination is often linked to improper storage temperatures and handling errors. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) have also flagged bivalve mollusks as high-risk foods when it comes to foodborne illnesses, especially for people with compromised immune systems.
According to the CDC, shellfish were responsible for around 19% of all seafood-related outbreaks in the United States between 1998 and 2015. And among those outbreaks, mussels were frequently identified as one of the culprits.
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Not Just Bourdain: Other Chefs Agree
Bourdain wasn’t alone in his skepticism. Many chefs and culinary insiders share similar sentiments. Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay has also hinted that mussels and oysters can be risky, particularly in restaurants that may not have the right cold-chain storage in place. And in a 2020 Business Insider article, several chefs anonymously revealed the foods they avoid at restaurants—unsurprisingly, shellfish made the list.
Some common reasons?
- Inconsistent freshness
- Poor storage practices
- High spoilage rate
- Difficulty spotting a “bad” mussel before it’s too late
The National Fisheries Institute even recommends that mussels be cooked the day they are purchased and that any that don’t open during cooking should be discarded—a step not always followed in busy kitchens trying to cut corners or reduce waste.
Bourdain’s “Streetwise” Seafood Logic
For Bourdain, mussels were more than just risky—they were unpredictable. You could get a flawless batch 90% of the time, but that 10%? It could cost you your entire evening (or worse). “It takes only a single bad mussel, one treacherous little guy,” he wrote, to take down an entire meal. His solution? Avoid mussels unless you trust the kitchen like family—or cook them yourself.
The Safer Option: Homemade Mussels
Ironically, Bourdain had zero issue with mussels when he prepared them at home. And it makes sense—home cooks have the power to check for freshness, inspect for cracked shells, clean thoroughly, and discard the duds. Plus, you’re far less likely to be serving dozens of people at once, so each mussel gets the attention it deserves.
When preparing mussels at home, the New York State Department of Health recommends:
- Buying live mussels that are tightly closed
- Storing them in the refrigerator covered with a damp cloth (not in water)
- Discarding any mussels that don’t open after cooking
- Cooking them within 24 hours of purchase
A popular and simple method? Steam them in white wine, garlic, and parsley. Toss in a little butter and crusty bread on the side, and you’ve got a gourmet meal—minus the risk of mystery kitchen storage.
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Other “Shady” Menu Items Bourdain Warned About
Bourdain’s mussel warning was just one item on a longer list of restaurant no-gos. Here are a few others that made him pause:
- Hollandaise Sauce: Often made in large batches and kept warm for long periods, which can create a perfect environment for bacteria like Salmonella.
- Fish on Mondays: He famously warned against ordering fish at restaurants on Mondays, especially in places far from the coast. Why? Because the seafood delivery likely came on Friday—and that fish has been sitting around all weekend.
- “Specials” That Sound Too Vague: Dishes like shepherd’s pie or chili can sometimes be a way to disguise leftover odds and ends. Not always—but enough to make Bourdain suspicious.
His logic wasn’t based on snobbery—it was grounded in years of behind-the-scenes kitchen experience. As he often said, he loved food too much to want a bad experience. And he wanted his readers and viewers to eat like insiders, not suckers.
What the Experts Say: Trust Your Gut (And the Kitchen)
At the end of the day, ordering mussels—or any questionable menu item—is about trust. Trust in the chef, the staff, and the standards of the restaurant. That’s why food safety experts always recommend choosing seafood restaurants with high turnover (so nothing sits too long), visible cleanliness, and transparent sourcing practices.
If you’re ever in doubt? Ask your server where the seafood came from, when it was delivered, or how it’s stored. A well-trained and confident team should be happy to answer. If they hesitate or dodge the question… maybe opt for the burger.
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Final Thought: A Little Knowledge Goes a Long Way
Anthony Bourdain’s advice wasn’t about fear—it was about awareness. Knowing what goes on behind the swinging doors of a restaurant kitchen can help you make better, safer choices. Whether it’s a funky little bistro in Paris or a chain restaurant in your hometown, being informed can elevate your dining experience—and help you dodge a plateful of regret.
So next time you see mussels on the menu, channel your inner Bourdain. Ask yourself: Do I trust this place? Do I trust the chef? Do I feel good about what’s going on in the kitchen? If the answer is yes, go ahead and order. If not… maybe stick to the fries.
